Since opening Deer Run Winery on Conesus Lake in 2003, George and Joan Kuyon have lived in sync with the seasons, organizing their lives around bud break, veraison and harvest. Barely ruffled by their transition from corporate America and the classroom, the couple have their sights on the future, with new releases in the works and new grapevines in the ground.
Tender Riesling shoots planted earlier this year will not mature until 2013 or 2014 but will eventually help reduce the amount of vinifera grapes Deer Run buys from area growers, says George Kuyon, a retired Eastman Kodak Co. engineer. The addition means more work for Scott Kuyon, the owners’ son, who manages the winery’s five acres of vines.
Set aside to age at the winery for now is Dockside, Deer Run’s first Port-style wine. Made from estate-grown Frontenac, the wine will likely have 10 percent to 12 percent residual sugar and 18 percent alcohol, George says.
Dockside will join Fawn, the winery’s first dessert wine. Released in 2009, the fortified product is made from Traminette and Valvin Muscat, a white grape the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, officially released in 2006. Deer Run’s experience with Valvin Muscat, known for its subtle orange-blossom aroma, stretches back to before the grape’s naming, when it was simply a numbered varietal among the winery’s vines.
As “pretty much a red wine drinker,” George says he tends to reach for the winery’s Noiret, made from another grape developed at the Agricultural Experiment Station. The grape has a foothold in Deer Run’s vineyards and imparts a peppery finish that complements steak or salmon, he says.
One of the most popular options in the tasting room remains Max Black, a sweet Vincent and Niagara blend named after the Kuyons’ late Scottish terrier. Due to its pronounced grapey-ness, the wine is meant for sipping.
As the lone winery on Conesus Lake, Deer Run produces roughly 2,000 cases annually. The 2009 vintage will amount to 1,500, given the wetness of the growing season.
In an effort to diversify its events programming, the winery recently began hosting Sip & Stitch needlework socials on the third Tuesday of every month. Knitters, crocheters and other needlecraft enthusiasts may work on their projects while enjoying Deer Run wine by the glass.
Even those who are all thumbs with needles have reason to visit the tasting room: The wine sampling is free, and Joan Kuyon, a retired teacher, makes sure the retail area brims with local cheese, mustards and jams.
Sheila Livadas
Hours: Noon to 6 p.m. daily from Memorial Day weekend to Dec. 31. 2 to 6 p.m. Friday, noon to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from Jan. 1 to April 30. Noon to 6 p.m. Thursday through Monday in May, until Memorial Day weekend.
Tasting fee: None.
Accessibility: Fully accessible.
enlarge MEGAN DAILOR
George and Joan Kuyon and their son, Scott, run Deer Run Winery, high above Conesus Lake.
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