Every vineyard is as unique as a fingerprint, thanks to its soil, slope, altitude, immediate surrounding climate and other natural influences. Wine geeks call this magical convergence of factors “terroir.”

In the Finger Lakes, terroir’s power echoes through the Rieslings: Some are sweet and round on the palate; others boast considerable dryness and mineral flavors from the limestone and shale soils.

Riesling also reflects a winemaker’s style easily, as does Vinny Aliperti’s at Atwater Estate Vineyards in Hector, Schuyler County.

The winery's webcam, updated every minute at www.atwatervineyards.com, demonstrates the effect of the Banana Belt, a microclimate on Seneca Lake known to experience higher temperatures than nearby sites in the Finger Lakes.

As a curved notch of land on Seneca Lake’s southeastern shore, the Banana Belt’s relative warmth helps protect grapevines from the elements and extends fruit ripening — two major pluses in a region that sometimes sees snow in April.

To celebrate its location, Atwater now calls its Somerset wines the Banana Belt Series. The three sweet wines — one white, one red and a Cayuga White- and Catawba-based blush — have the silhouette of a monkey on their labels, in a style often seen on vintage fruit crates.

The vineyards contain 16 varieties of grapes, ranging from Riesling to Cabernet Franc.

Set high on a hill, the winery’s blond-wood tasting room offers a spectacular view of Seneca Lake. Visitors who want to soak in the setting at a leisurely pace can head to the landscaped grounds, where three boulders buried in the side of the hill offer an ideal perch.

— Sheila Livadas

Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Year's Day, Easter. Wheelchair-accessible from a gravel driveway.